POST:
2.) The AC Belt is the serpentine belt and runs over the crank, around the alternator and the ac compressor.
3.) The AC Compressor is attached to the engine with bolts and has a front magnetic component that when the AC or Heat is turned on it locks down to spin the compressor. This is also filled with ac Freon and oil so needs to be drained to be changed.
4.) The accumulator is a small part also need system drained to swap.
5.) Not sure where the Evaporator is.
6.) There is also a thing called the orifice tube and another odd name thing filter thing in the lines.
05/05/2018
Chevrolet Cobalt 2005 Sedan AC/Heat Air Conditioning HVAC
1.) There is an AC "blower motor" fan under the dash that has to be cut out. It sits right above where a passengers feet would be and is accessed from inside looking under the dash.
2.) There is the climate control panel in the dash you use to change temperature with. That can go bad. The box is easy to remove and replace just remove dash trim and unscrew it, disconnect 2 plugs.
3.) The AC Compressor under the hood can go bad. If you pull the wrong fuse relay in the fuse box it will stop working and make a noise.
4.) The AC relay in the fuse box under the hood can go bad.
5.) The fuse in the fuse box under the dash next to the passenger side feet well can go bad
6.) The ac resistor (blower motor resistor) under the passenger side dash (near the AC motor, #1^) can go bad.
If your motor is dying it will likely take the resistor under the dash with it.
If your resistor is dying it will likely take the motor with it.
How to tell you have one of these 2 solutions to your problem. If the AC/Heat work on the HIGH setting (4 in the Cobalts) then it is either the motor or the resistor.
The resistor simply adjusts the voltage to a lower setting (3, 2, 1) so the car is always running the ac blower motor at 4 it is the resistor that is slowing it/stepping it down. So when you can use the AC/Heat at the highest setting it is because the resistor isn't working and the motor is only designed to be run at its highest (setting 4)
Don't quote me on that. It is basically true. A resistor is just a big fuse you slide into a housing under the foot dash. It doesn't cost a lot. The motor is a pain in the ass to cut out from its housing but also doesn't cost that much. The AC Compressor is under the hood and I don't know what it costs to replace it. If you change all of these things it is one of the several fuses or relays or the dash control panel or a wiring problem with a harness or something like that. Odds are that it is the motor and resistor though likely.
I learned a lesson about the ac compressor making noise by pulling the relay and putting it in backwards by mistake. (might have been the fuel pump relay when I was swapping fuel filters that did this also) So take a picture before pulling relays.
1.) to know which hole it goes back into2.) to know which direction to face it
To test a relay I don't know use a multimeter or something not an electrician, was told learned that if it clicks its working, so start the car and put your hand on it if it clicks and moves it is working. Turns out for me it was and I had a bad motor & resistor.
I also had the freon refilled after this. If there is to much you can damage things and with not enough freon the AC/Heat system won't work well. Be sure to use a climate gauge when filling the AC freon yourself. Don't just attach a store can bottle and fill. Buy a store can bottle that has a gauge and use it correctly.
This is a replacement blower motor. They have 3 or 4 screws that screw into the hole you made removing the stock AC/Heat blower motor. Just cut it out with a razor blade or knife. It is a tight fit to remove replace.
Resistor plugs in and slides into a housing under the dash.